Buenos dias, amigos!
Our border crossing was uneventful, although we crossed
at such a little place that they did not issue car permits. We had to
go west to San Luis for that, which is what we were trying to avoid. However,
it turned out to be quite easy. The first few days are a blur of impressions.
The area near the US border was somewhat difficult - partly due to culture shock,
no doubt, and partly also because it is a wierd place. Lots of garbage
everywhere, and very dry and dusty. Young soldiers with big guns set up
road blocks in unlikely places and stop you, or wave you through, or make you
get out while they look through your vehicle, all based on seemingly
random whim. Funny signs: Campo Mosquito; Disminuya su Velocidad;
Hamburguesas; a menu that translates beef burrito as "little young donkey" which
is offered chopped or roasted.
But the food! Oh my. We aim for the simple
taco stand with lots of Mexican customers. And have we enjoyed this food!
Even Isaac eats it with relish, much to our surprise. He loves tortillas
with chicken, or cheese. He has discovered the paletas, which are the
most scrumptious fruit popsicles known to human kind. We have found it
easy to locate camping, clean water, and good food. We are quickly
building enough Spanish vocabulary to manage getting our basic needs met.
So, I'll share a couple of highlights.
We camped for free for two nights on a rocky
shore near San Isidro, right next to a little beach. We were alone there,
except that the area was clearly popular with the local fishermen, who frequently
were out in boats or fishing from the shore nearby. One everning some
were diving, perhaps for crabs, lobsters or abalone? We never found out.
The locals also drove around in some pretty funky vehicles, often without various
doors, bumpers, windshields or other important but obviously not crucial parts.
One truck went by with no headlights one night - a man stood in the back with
a big flashlight! There were thousands of mussels all over the shore.
We picked some, and I had a feast. Steve ate one, too, and much to Isaac's
disgust his allergy seems to have abated, so he didn't vomit. And Isaac
was all prepared with the camera, too! Parents are so dull! This
beach/shore had absolutely no trees in the area, so we all spent lots of time
scouring the coutryside for burnables - found mostly small bushes, which made
a bright if short lived campfire. Steve had to use both Isaac's spears
and his sword to rig up a cothesline for drying day.
I want those of you who suffered (or reveled, as
the case may be) through the big snow in Vermont last week to know that we were
camped in a DESERT surrounded by CACTII on Nov 11, and it RAINED all night!
Well, sprinkled actually, so we didn't get wet, but you know, weather can be
like that. :-)
Some gringos we ran into while leaving San Isidro
recommended our next spot, a campground with HOT SHOWERS right on the beach
called El Pabellon. This was a huge beach, and really lovely. There
was an entire whale skeleton advertising the campground - big guy. Unfortunately,
the whales don't come down here until Dec/Jan, so we won't see the crowds of
famously friendly grey whales this year. We also didn't swim here, as
the water was a mite chilly. However, we did buy two pounds of crab legs
from a fisherman for US$3. It turned out to be massive quantities of soft
shell crab - wow! Yum! Steve and I ate as many as we could for supper
that night, and then had crab salad sandwiches for lunch for the next two days!
We drove for a day or two through this surreal landscape
of rocky volcanic hills covered with cordon cactii and bizarre looking things
that Steve calls Boojum Trees. They are tall and skinny, with spiky punk
'hair', and dripping with a lichen that looks like Spanish moss. While
in this area, we took a side trip out a washboard dirt road to visit an old
onyx mine. Huge boulders of yellow onyx dot the area, and we picked up
some beautiful pieces for Uncle Phil, the rock hound . There was
an old school house built of onyx, and about thirty piles of stone with wooden
crosses sticking out, which were unmarked graves. There was apparently
an epidemic among the miners.
This odd country gradually gave way to mountains.
This was a very narrow, curvy, steep road with lots of big trucks barreling
around corners at you, half in your measly little lane, the other side of which
dropped off into a deep cactus covered canyon. I kept saying, "Eye of
the needle, Stevie. Aim for the eye of the needle!" Yikes!
We were relieved to reach flat desert again! Where we several times saw
the classic desert sight of vultures feeding on a cow carcass among the cactii
by the side of the road. The local ranchers do not fence their cows, who
are attracted to the road for the heat at night. We splurged on a motel
room in Guerrero Negro after a long day of driving through all this. What
a treat! The Motel Ballenas had TV! Hot showers! A fun and
entertaining surrounding town!
Our next stop was truly the height of Isaac's trip
so far. We camped all by ourselves in a palm tree oasis campground just
a short walk from San Ignacio, an old colonial town with a square, cathedral
at one end, and a sidewalk video game parlor at the other! After dinner
at the campground, we strolled into town and hung out with most of the local
populace in the square. Isaac played video games with local youth, and
finally got to connect with some Mexican kids! Steve and I enjoyed the
whole scene - little kids running and playing in the square, teens flirting
and hanging out with the video games, young adults showing off as they strutted
around, and the elders chatting quietly on benches or in doorways. Made
us eager to get to the mainland, where this more traditional Mexican village
life is more common.
As usual, I see I am being long winded, so I will
try to speed it up here.
- We found a geocache in a cave
with 5,000-7,000 year old cave paintings (no peace signs, Geof!)
- We camped on a little beach on
the Sea of Cortez that once made Conde Nast list of 10 best beaches in
Mexico - for US $4! I swam and swam in the perfect turquoise tropical
water, and even Steve and Isaac went in up to their waists!
- Bought baguettes at an old copper
mining town with a history of French occupation.
- Were awakened one morning by
a rooster crowing along with a marching band, which seemed to be practicing
in a field nearby. Band was heavy on trumpets and drums. After ten
days of being here, where so much seems inexplicable, we no longer recognize
incongruence!
Much love to you all,
Sarah and Steve and Isaac
--Sarah Gallagher--
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